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3 Dimensional Chat / How to make a hole?

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Hayer
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Posted: 9th Jan 2006 07:47
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Hi
Im using 3ds max 7...
And i have made a simple shild...(if u ever have playd CS u have seen it) Its a police shild ...
But i dunno how i make space i can see troughet...
So how do i make a space i can see troughet?

I all ways where a flame secured armor and my shotgun... Just in case
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Wiggett
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Posted: 9th Jan 2006 13:30 Edited at: 9th Jan 2006 13:31
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I don't have max 7, but let me help you in another way

Quote: "
Hi
Im using 3ds max 7...
And i have made a simple shield...(if u ever have played CS u have seen it) Its a police riot shield ...
But i am unsure of how to make a space i can see through... The one on cs has a special peep hole in it.how do I make one of those using 3ds max 7?"


http://www.angelfire.com/wizard2/spacerecon/index.html
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Van B
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Posted: 9th Jan 2006 13:41
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I only know Rhino3D, which would easily do that with nurbs - perhaps Max has some equivalent command.

I'm thinking that you'd make a box the same size as your required slot and put it in place, then subdivide (or something) the box from the shield. Not sure what the terminology would be but Max must have some sort of geometry carving.


Van-B

Put away, those fiery biscuits!
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dark coder
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Posted: 9th Jan 2006 14:12
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make a box and place it where the slit goes, then select the shield and goto the create tab, on the dropdown select compound objects, then in the list of buttons select boolean then 'pick object' and select your slit object this should subtract the box from the shield, it maybe the other way round tho...

but if your shield mesh is rather complex the boolean results maybe rather untidy so its best to extrude the 2 sides of the shield and mould your slit from that or use cut in the boolean options and fill in polys.

Halowed are the ori.
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Insanity Complex
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Posted: 9th Jan 2006 14:59
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Or you could select the faces where the hole should be and make them transparent.


3D UnitedUnder Construction Moved from original location
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Hayer
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Posted: 9th Jan 2006 15:54
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More help??

Nothing did work
Or i did it wrong...

I all ways where a flame secured armor and my shotgun... Just in case
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Dodic
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Posted: 9th Jan 2006 17:05 Edited at: 9th Jan 2006 17:07
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Quote: "So how do i make a space i can see troughet?"


i "worked" in max for a little bit (playing around while i had opportunity) , if you wanted a "TRANSPARENT" object , i CAN explain you (in g-max) that is , but gmax is free for practising working and for changing models in quake and so..so i use it , ok i`l write you a little tutorial for transparent objects , so is that what you meanth so i can "write" a simple tutor , or did i miss understud you ? (somehow when i look at answer others gave , it looks like i`m talking about something else)

OR , DO YOU WANT A PART OF YOUR SHIELD TO BE Well NOT TO BE , so you can see throo there ?


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Dodic
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Posted: 9th Jan 2006 17:06 Edited at: 9th Jan 2006 17:07
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sorry , excidental double post


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Hayer
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Posted: 9th Jan 2006 17:19
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Nice... Just come with it

I all ways where a flame secured armor and my shotgun... Just in case
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Dodic
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Posted: 9th Jan 2006 17:23
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ok , but it`l be written in gmax , but gmax is TOTALY same for simple cmmands (including that) so , you should have NO troubles.




i`m working on it...i wan`t to make it small and nice..


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Dodic
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Posted: 9th Jan 2006 17:50
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Ok i finished a simple one , hope it`l help





(i attached it , just press the download button)


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Hayer
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Posted: 9th Jan 2006 19:13
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Tnx

I all ways where a flame secured armor and my shotgun... Just in case
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Dodic
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Posted: 9th Jan 2006 19:19
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no prob. i love to help.


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John H
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Posted: 10th Jan 2006 00:10
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Check your manual for boolean opperations, then do a boolean cut onto the shield where the clear part would be.


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Dodic
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Posted: 10th Jan 2006 00:18
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Quote: "Check your manual for boolean opperations, then do a boolean cut onto the shield where the clear part would be"


yeap , that`s right , i covered it into my simple tutor.


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entomophobiac
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Posted: 12th Jan 2006 15:53
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Either, you'd do it the risky way, by using a boolean compound object and simply cutting it out from the core object. OR you'd model it out by cutting up the object, removing the faces you don't need and then simply fill the gap with new polygons.

At least that's what I'd do in Maya. Booleans are too risky.

If you don't what I'm talking about, I'd take it that you've bought a very expensive program for no reason at all
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Dodic
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Posted: 12th Jan 2006 17:55
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no , why risky , there is an fetch (something like undo) option for that , and boleean is great , BECOUSE if you just delete faces , you know how it would look ? - like this :



i don`t know english to well to explain what`s wrongs , but i think you can understand , like it`s "fat" on one side , and when you look throo the hole there is NOTHING , non existance..

i just cannot find good word to it , it`s getting on my nerver recently i like english , but i don`t know inaff , i cannot express my selve very often and becouse of that my messages look silly


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entomophobiac
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Posted: 12th Jan 2006 18:44
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The problem you are referring to is caused by the fact that there are no faces on the inside. That is also why you append new faces to the old ones, between the edges. Boolean's are dangerous, because most game renderers don't handle them very well. They usually go through vertices as they are connected, and quite often prefer them to be triangulated. At least that's the way the engine works that we use at our school.

No matter what, booleans can cause gaps in models without connecting edges, usually resulting in bizarre effects in real-time rendering (such as games) and more often than not they also cause strange geometry. Hence - use them at your own risk. Still, I believe Maya's booleans are far buggier than 3DS', but I'd suggest for no one to use them in either.
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John H
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Posted: 13th Jan 2006 01:07
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Quote: "Check your manual"


Id imagine most people who have 3DS Max on this forum couldnt get to this step. You cant crack a few inch thick manual, if you get what I mean


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Dodic
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Posted: 13th Jan 2006 01:54
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Quote: "You cant crack a few inch thick manual, if you get what I mean
"


yeap..solid steal..


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Earl Walker
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Posted: 17th Jan 2006 08:20
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Heh I have got all the trial vesions from r3 ans am working till one runs out then upgrading to next. only got 20 days of max 8 left now then ill have to find something differeent. meh
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smoked
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Posted: 24th Jan 2006 04:07
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i'd have to agree with entomophobiac on this one, but if you are going to use booleans be sure to weld your verts after you're done.

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Heckno
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Posted: 24th Jan 2006 20:57
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Quote: "Id imagine most people who have 3DS Max on this forum couldnt get to this step. You cant crack a few inch thick manual, if you get what I mean "


lol, my book is only about 3 1/2" thick at 1180 pages, before the appendix.... of course that doesnt' include the pdf manuals that came with the disk which are the add-on stuff that came out after hardcopy print.....

I used to use booleans but after a month or two I have shy-ed away from them because of what entomophobiac said....
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