Quote: "I have a case, micro I think, it has 4 slot spaces on the back"
The slots are for the cards that plug into your motherboard, and since 99% of motherboards are ATX form factor and thus 99% of cases are designed for them (mini, mid, full tower), you can't the size of the case by that. How many front bays does the case have? If it only has 1 or maybe 2 at the most, then it's likely a mini tower. There are different sizes of ATX-compatible motherboard sizes, such as micro and extended. Then there's the various sizes of ITX motherboards that let you build really small computers.
1. Don't know, never used that website but I'll check your hardware.
2. Any boxed processor you get from Intel comes with a stock cooler. I've used the stock cooler on every CPU I ever owned until recently where I switched to water cooling for my i7. If you're not overclocking, stock cooler is adequate. There is NO glue on a processor! What you're probably thinking of is thermal paste and you MUST use it. Put a small dab on the die of the processor where the heatsink will make contact. This ensures a proper transfer of heat from the cpu. Failure to do so make damage your processor or in extreme cases you'll watch it melt.
3. If you look at the
specs on the motherboard, it lists the onboard ethernet. So yes, it has gigabit on the motherboard so an extra NIC is not required. But it only supports a wired connection. If you want wireless you'll need that other card you selected.
4. You can walk into a store and leave with a PC that day. Customized options however could require a delay and that time depends on where you buy it.
5. No. I had to look up the board on another site to be certain because that site didn't list it, but yes your board has Realtek ALC1150 7.1 audio built-in. I think it's very rare these days to find a motherboard without onboard sound.
6. It's pretty simple and most things only connect or fit one way. Even the audio ports are color coded. Just because careful when installing the parts, especially the ram. Static electricity can damage parts. If you don't have a static bracelet, you can keep yourself grounded by holding the metal frame of the case as you pick up your parts. This helps reduce the chance of static shock to the components. The most tedious part of the build I think is plugging in all those tiny wires from the case to the motherboard. (the power switch/led, hdd light, reboot switch,etc...) The motherboard manual should come with a picture showing which wire plugs into which pins. They should also be labeled on the board itself, but sometimes hard to see. You could save £10 and get the
DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance instead. G.Skill is also another brand worth considering. They have very good competitive prices, and over the years have really shown they are quality. I'm currently using 16GB of G.skills sniper gaming memory and it's been working flawlessly. Corsair will be fine too I'm sure, just providing another option from experience.
7. The parts are fine. I personally would go with a Western Digital harddrive over Hitachi. This
WD 1TB Blue is only £45.99 from Amazon and it spins at 7200rpm instead of the 5400rpm of the hitachi you selected. This means faster seek times. For an extra £10 you could get the black series WD, which is their top of the line consumer drive. The WD drive also has 64mb of cache over your 8mb, thus better performance. That hitachi is a 2.5", typically for laptops. Also, I want to point out that the memory you selected runs at 2133MHz. Your board will still use it, but it will underclock its speed to 1600 unless you overclock the ram settings on the board. (unless the board detects it and overclocks it automatically)
8. By case cooler you mean a fan, you should probably at least one case fan at the back to blow hot air out and create an air current through the case.
9. Depends on the shop.
10. That Asus GTX 760 will draw up to 225w and need an 8-pin PCIe power connector. If your PSU doesn't have one, you'll need an adapter. The 4th gen Intel CPUs use more power than the previous gen, about 10w more. Even though, that leaves roughly 200w left to power the rest of your components which shouldn't be a probably as the gfx and cpu are the biggest ones. Others will likely disagree that 500w isn't enough, but I think you should be fine, though I wouldn't go any lower on it. I've been building systems for nearly 15 years and used PSUs with much lower wattage than what people said I could, because I do the math. Generally, I add up the max power consumption everything uses and add 100w, so the PSU doesn't require 100% all the time and stress it out. And chances are, nothing you do will use 100% of all your parts at any one time, evening gaming. (because your CPU will hardly be used during games)
